The taste of two identities
By Marco Louter
At the edge of Copenhagen, where the city gradually gives way to water and open space, you’ll find KOAN. This two-Michelin-starred restaurant is the kind of place you could easily walk past. Its entrance is remarkably understated, revealing little of what lies beyond. But the moment you step inside, the atmosphere changes. The energy of the city fades, replaced by a sense of calm. Warm wood, natural stone, soft lighting and an interior that immediately feels welcoming create the perfect setting. Even before the first course arrives, you know you’re in for a special evening.
Rich flavours
With KOAN, chef Kristian Baumann tells his own story. Born in South Korea and raised in Denmark, he has spent years exploring what these two cultures mean to him. That journey is reflected throughout his cuisine, where Korean flavours, techniques and traditions meet the simplicity and precision of Scandinavian cooking.
The name KOAN comes from the Zen Buddhist tradition and refers to a riddle without a clear answer. Rather than something to be solved, it encourages reflection. It is a fitting philosophy for the restaurant. There are no familiar classics or signature dishes designed to steal the spotlight. Instead, the focus is on the journey, the interplay of flavours and the emotions each course evokes.
The tasting menu comprises around sixteen courses, and from the beginning it is clear that nothing appears on the table by chance. Everything feels connected, like part of a larger story. One standout dish is the Norwegian langoustine, perfectly cooked and paired with lardo and green strawberry. On paper, it may not seem an obvious combination, but on the plate it works beautifully. The richness of the langoustine is lifted by the freshness of the strawberry, while the lardo adds depth and texture.
This is followed by a refined interpretation of kimchi. Rather than the bold, fiery version many know, the emphasis here is on balance: acidity, umami and a gentle warmth that slowly builds. This is where KOAN truly excels. Fermentation is never used to impress, but to create complexity and layers of flavour. The same refinement is evident in the broths served throughout the menu. They are light and clear, yet remarkably deep in flavour. Chilli also appears regularly, but never dominates. Instead, it creates tension, allowing the other ingredients to shine.
Fresh and subtle
Throughout the evening, the use of fruit and acidity in savoury dishes continues to surprise. Green strawberry, bright citrus notes and subtle sweetness keep the menu fresh and evolving. There are no heavy flavours, only a careful balance between intensity and elegance. Korean rice wine, sool, also plays an important role. Lightly fermented and gently sweet, it is more than a pairing; it becomes part of the experience, linking the courses together.
The service perfectly matches the atmosphere. Jeff Njoroge Njehu stands out for his calm, warm approach. Enough is explained to appreciate each dish, but never so much that the storytelling overshadows the food.
A recognisable style 
What makes KOAN so compelling is the way every element comes together. Fermentation, acidity, chilli and Scandinavian restraint never feel like separate techniques, but parts of a distinctive culinary identity: Korea expressed through fermentation, Denmark through purity. By the end of the meal, I realise I have stopped counting the courses. The menu becomes one continuous experience, where each flavour naturally leads to the next. It is not only the individual dishes that linger, but the feeling KOAN leaves behind: proof that two culinary worlds can meet to create something truly remarkable.
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